Well preserved ball court at Tonina, near Ocosingo, Chiapas |
On the January tour of the state of Chiapas, Mexico, our group of nine explored the ruins of five Mayan sites: Tonina, Palenque, Yaxchilan, Bonampak, and Chinkultik. Each one has a ball court, roughly the same size and design. Our guides ranged from terrific (at Palenque) to so bad I fired him after 15 minutes (Chinkultik). That guy was nothing more than a local worker on break hoping to pick up a few bucks by pretending to know something.
Most of the ruins have little signage in Spanish, almost none in English, and the bulk of what you can find out about the site is either within the on-site museum, if there is one, or from people who present themselves as guides. Most of them do not speak English. Our guide in Palenque was not only a fluent English speaker, he had interesting ways of presenting the material to make the memory of it stick and to prompt more questions. He gave the best explanation of how the Mayan world fell apart around the year 900 AD that I've ever heard. It included political, religious, and environmental problems, the most pressing of which were overpopulation (resulting in environmental degradation and starvation) and consequent lack of control by the governors. Royalty were considered Gods, and were well educated in poetry, art, politics, religion, literature and astronomy, but they couldn't seem to get a handle on the problems besetting the city-states. Sound familiar? Unfortunately our guide didn't seem to know a lot about the ball game.
The "goal-post" is a sculpture of a captive, about to be beheaded. |
First of all, never ask an archeologist a simple question!!
The ball game was a ceremonial game (or games) and not a sport the way we think
of sports, played in different styles of ballcourts and with different
rules that varied by both place and time. The oldest potential ballcourt in
Oaxaca may be six thousand years old. Typically, the result was preordained and
what was presented was a kind of morality play: the classic struggle between
forces of light and darkness, between good and evil. The extent of the ballgame
is revealed in records from the Contact Period that indicate 16,000 rubber
balls were provided annually as tribute from Gulf Coast communities to the Aztecs
and other powerful states in Central Mexico.
The balls were made with a combination of raw
latex combined with the juice from pulverized morning glory vines that grow
with and wrap around rubber trees. The juice contains chemicals that
elasticize the latex and turn it into actual rubber in a way not duplicated by
western science and industry until the mid-19th century.
Although the ballgame represented a very strong
and central ideological mechanism, do not discount the secular attributes
associated with the game, including the reaffirmation of status and power and
their attendant prerogatives, including the power to sacrifice. Over time, the
ballgame became more politicized, at least in Central Mexico in terms of
political competition between competing cities or states.
That's background, next something specifically
about the Maya.
I'm assuming that
you know something about the Popul Vuh. This comment talks about the ballcourt
symbolism and the Popul vuh as a Mayan origin myth. Ballcourt symbolism is
closely related to Maya creation mythology as recounted in the Popul Vuh, a
17th century transcription of a traditional Maya creation myth (with all
attendant problems of post-conquest accounts). Traditional people do use the
same disconnect that we have between myth and history, although there are still
plenty of people who read the Bible as if it were the true history of real people and
events.
Evidence of the original myth is found in the
archaeological record as early as 400 BC. The story recounts the activities of
two sets of twins during the Third Creation (we live in the fourth Creation).
In the story, the first set of twins (the maize twins) were great ballplayers
who irritated the Lords of Death, and had to undergo a series of trials. The
twins lost, were killed, and buried below the floor of a mythic ballcourt,
except for one twin's head that was hung on a tree as a warning to others.
As luck would have it, the daughter of a lord
fell in love with the skull, managed to become pregnant with a second set of
twins, outsmarted her father, and gave birth to the second set of twins - the
hero twins, whose actions explain how the world came to be (or at least the
Maya world). One of the things they did was to find their fathers' ballgame
equipment, ultimately defeat the Lords of Death, retrieved their fathers from
the Underworld, and then go about recreating the world. As part of that
recreation, the original twins were paddled across the sky in a canoe to the
cosmic turtle (identified as Orion's belt).
The god Chak opened the turtle's back with a
lightening stone, which enabled the maize twins to grow and continue the
creation of humanity. The crack in the turtle is the ballcourt, which is both
the entry point to the underworld, and the arena where the Maya confront death,
disease and war. The twins lost the original game and
died for it, but were resurrected in order to create the world. Not
surprisingly, the maize gods are associated with ballcourts and are worshipped
there. The ballgame itself is the ultimate metaphor for life and death - a place
where fate and chance are tempted. It was also a metaphor for war. This is the
real message associated with Mayan ball court.
I will never look at a ballcourt the same way again. In fact, the way the "crack" runs down the middle, steeply rising on both sides, and the way it breaks at the ends to form a T shape is just how you might imagine a pierced turtle shell to break open.
See if you think the same way. Here are some photos of the very well-preserved court at Tonina.
Closeup of the sides of the center section with the "goals". |
The goal post, in the form of a captive |
The small pyramid where the players were ultimately decapitated, in line with the creation myth. |
Center court viewed from one side. |
Some modern Mayans hanging around the ball court |
Members of the tour group heading down from the highest pyramid in the Tonina group. |
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